More information on flights to and from Santa Cruz  . Reconfirming your flight departures at either the Aerogal (252 6798; www.aerogal.com.ec; Av Padre Julio Herrera) or TAME office (252 6165;www.tame.com.ec; Av Charles Darwin; h8am-noon & 2-10pm Mon-Fri, 4-6pm Sat) is essential. Flights are often full, and there is sometimes difficulty in changing your reservation or buying a ticket. EMETEBE (252 6177; Av Charles Darwin) has small aircraft that fly between Baltra and San Cristóbal and Isabela. You must reserve your ticket at least a few days in advance. Departure times vary.

Boat 

The capitanía has information about (infrequent) boats to the mainland and has details of every boat sailing from Puerto Ayora.

The passenger ferry Ingala II sails Monday, Wednesday and Friday to San Cristóbal and two Fridays each month to Isabela. Both trips are about four hours and cost $50. Tickets are sold the day of departure below the EMETEBE  office near the harbor. You can pick up schedules at the Cámara de Turismo, at the capitanía and at the main Ingala office (252 6151), north of the harbor off Avenida Padre Julio Herrera.

Ask at Restaurant Salvavidas about smaller boats that usually head daily to Isabela (one trip at 2pm) and San Cristóbal (up to eight trips in the morning). They reach the islands in less than three hours and charge about $30. There are no toilets on these little boats and the ride can be rough and even terrifying to some.

One recommended company that plies the Santa Cruz–San Cristóbal route in a larger, more trustworthy and comfortable boat than most is Blue Attractions 

Panoramic views and frisky penguins make this tiny island just off Sullivan Bay a common stop for boat tours. A path from a jetty (dry landing) leads up to the wind-whipped 114m summit of the island where the dramatic views make it a de rigeur spot for group photos. This trail leads through a wild and unearthly looking lava landscape; a wooden boardwalk and stairs have been built, both to aid visitors and to protect the trail from erosion.

The other visitor site is a small, sandy beach in a cove (wet landing) from where you can don your snorkel gear and swim after the speedy Galápagos penguins that frequent this cove. Marine turtles and a gaudy variety of tropical fish are also frequently seen.

The best way to photograph the penguins is by taking a panga ride close to the rocks on either side of the cove – particularly around the aptly named Pinnacle Rock, to the right of the cove from the seaward side. You can often get within a few meters of these fascinating birds – the closest point to Puerto Ayora where you can do so. Other penguin colonies are on the western side of Isabela.

From the beach, a 100m trail leads across the narrowest part of Bartolomé to another sandy beach on the opposite side of the island.

Marine turtles may nest here between January and March.

Sombrero Chino

This tiny island, a fairly recent volcanic cone, just off the southeastern tip of Santiago is less than a quarter of 1 sq km in size. Its accuracy of its descriptive name, translated as ‘Chinese Hat,’ is best appreciated from the north. There is a small sea lion cove on the north shore, where you can anchor and land at the visitor site. Opposite Sombrero Chino, on the rocky shoreline of nearby Santiago, penguins are often seen. A 400m trail goes around the cove, where there’s snorkeling and swimming opportunities, and through a sea lion colony – marine iguanas scurry everywhere.

Isla Rábida

This approximately 5-sq-km island, also known as Jervis, lies 5km south of Santiago. There is a wet landing onto a comparatively dark red beach where sea lions haul out and pelicans nest. This is one of the best places to see these birds nesting.

Behind the beach, there is a saltwater lagoon where flamingos and white-cheeked pintails are sometimes seen. This lagoon is also the site of a sea lion colony where the solteros (lone males), deposed by the dominant bull, while away their days in bachelor ignominy.

There is a 750m trail with good views of the island’s 367m volcanic peak, which is covered with palo santo trees. At the end of the trail, there is a great snorkeling spot.

One of the most popular sites in all the islands is Puerto Egas, on James Bay, on the west side of Santiago. Here, there is a long, flat, black lava shoreline where eroded shapes form lava pools, caves and inlets that house a great variety of wildlife. This is a great place to see colonies of marine iguanas basking in the sun. The tide pools contain hundreds of red Sally Lightfoot crabs, which attract hunting herons of all the commonly found species.

Named after Dario Egas, the owner of a  salt mine on the island that was once, as a result of presidential patronage, the only producer of salt in all the country.

The inlets are favorite haunts of the Galápagos fur sea lion, and this is a great opportunity to snorkel with the surprisingly agile animals as well as many species of tropical fish, moray eels, sharks and octopuses.

Behind the black lava shoreline is Sugarloaf Volcano, which can be reached via a 2km path. Lava lizards, Darwin’s finches and Galápagos doves are often seen on this path. It peters out near the top of the 395m summit, but from here, the views are stuferal goats are often seen (wild goats are a major problem on Santiago), and Galápagos hawks often hover a few meters above the top of the volcano. North of the volcano is a crater where the salt mine used to be; its remains can be visited by walking alonga 3km trail from the coast. At the north end of James Bay, about 5km from Puerto Egas, is the brown-sand Espumilla Beach, which can be reached with a wet landing. The swimming is good here, and by the small lagoon behind the beach you can see various wading birds – including, at times, flamingos. A 2km trail leads inland through transitional vegetation where there are various finches and the Galápagos flycatcher.

At the northwestern end of Santiago, another site that is normally visited by boat is Buccaneer Cove, so called because it was a popular place for 17th- and 18th-century buccaneers to careen their vessels. The cliffs and pinnacles, which are used as nesting areas by several species of seabirds, are the main attraction these days. This is best appreciated from the sea, but it is possible toland in the cove, where there are beaches. Sullivan Bay is on Santiago’s east coast.

Here, a huge, black, century-old lava flow has solidified into a sheet that reaches to the edge of the sea. A dry landing enables visitors to step onto the flow and follow a trail of white posts in a 2km circuit on the lava. You can see uneroded volcanic formations, such as pahoehoe lava, lava bubbles and tree-trunk molds in the surface. This site is of particular interest to those interested in volcanology or geology.

8km into the highlands, hire a taxi $2 (one($20), walk or hitchhike, for the final 10km

ride to the visitor site of El Junco Lagoon.

Some taxi drivers are licensed to give tours

of the lagoon.

In Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, taxis hang

out along the Malecón and have fixed rates

to island destinations, but don’t always stick

to them. They’ll take you to La Lobería, El

Progreso, El Junco Lagoon, La Galapaguera

and Puerto Chino.

The airport is half a kilometer from town –

a five-minute walk or a $1 taxi ride (taxis

are white pickup cabs). For information on

flights to Guayaquil and Quito see p358 . A

Hercules plane seconded from the air force,

flies tourists from Guayaquil to San Cristóbal,

Baltra and Isabela every 15 days and costs

half of other fares (see p358 ). Regardless of

the airline you should try to check your luggage

at least two hours in advance; you can

always easily return to town to spend your

final hours in the islands more comfortably.

AeroGal (%252 1117; www.aerogal.com.ec) Office at

the airport.

EMETEBE (%252 0036) Office at the airport. Flies

within the islands.

TAME (%252 1089; www.tame.com.ec; Av Charles

Darwin) Office in town and at the airport.

Boat

Ingala II sails two to three times per week

to Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz ($50, about

four hours). Small boats head to Santa Cruz

and occasionally to Floreana and Isabela;

ask about the Blue Attractions boat at San

Cristóbal Tours (see opposite ). Rates are $20

to $30 (two to 2½ hours).

12; h7am-8pm) Part of the hotel of the same

name, this is the most modern and comfortable

restaurant in town. The 2nd-floor

dining room has great views of the harbor

and serves pizza ($8), pasta ($7) and seafood

($8). Cheap almuerzos are also available.

Las Playas (%252 0577; Av de la Armada Nacional;

mains $6) This restaurant in an attractive yellow

building along the waterfront to the

west of town has outdoor seating and, more

importantly, large portions. The shrimp

cooked in coconut milk ($7) is especially

good as is the conch ceviche ($6) and the

personal pizzas ($7).

Yogurt Persa (Av Charles Darwin; burgers $2) A good

spot to watch new arrivals and old hands

come and go on the pier just opposite. It’s

fast food all the way, from the bright lights

to the chicken meals.

La Casona (%252 0292; Av Charles Darwin) Look

for the yellow and blue facade at the southern

end of the Malecón for good sandwiches,

shakes and coffee.

Mi Grande (Jose de Villamil; drinks $0.90-1.50) Famous

for its array of batidos (fruit shakes).

Rosita’s (Ignacio Hernandez & Wolf ) and Restaurant

Albacora (Alsacio Northia & Española) both serve

tasty fresh-caught fish ($4) and cheap almuerzos

($3).

Patagonia Café & Bar (Av Charles Darwin), Deep

Blue Restaurant (Av Espanola) and Restaurant Barracuda

are similar places on or just off the

Malecón serving inexpensive almuerzos and

snacks throughout the day and evening.

DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT

Bar Arrecife is the place for karaoke filled

evenings and the rustic Polos Cafe & Bar (Av 12

de Febrero) is sometimes turned into a discotheque

but always does good capahrinas.

The Island Discoteque (Av Isabela) is perched

on a hill in town. Side by side, Neptuno (Av

Charles Darwin) and Yolita (Av Charles Darwin) are the

local discos; both are on the Malecón near

the capitanía.

El Barquero is a good hang-out with outdoor

tables, though usually only open on

weekends.

s/d incl breakfast $40/60; ais) The Miconia

is easily the nicest place to stay on the

island. Just a few steps from the passenger

wharf on the waterfront, this hotel’s seven

rooms (it’s building eight more) are tucked

back quietly in a nicely landscaped garden

with hammocks, a tiny pool and Jacuzzi.

Each extremely attractive room, really

suites since there are separate living room

areas with wicker furniture, is painted in

bright cheerful colors. There’s a full-service

gym and excellent restaurant and café overlooking

the harbor. Internet café as well.

Residencial Wilmar (%252 0706; rafriv@ecuaenlace

.com; Gabriel García Moreno; s/d incl breakfast $25/50; a)

Only a few blocks from the harbor, this place

has several large, comfortable rooms in a

family home. Everything is kept spotless and

the mattresses are especially good.

Teclas Surf Resort (%252 0632; teclagenoa@yahoo

.com; s/d $30/60; a) This white villa next to

the Miconia has large, basic rooms; those

on the 2nd floor have balconies with sea

views. There’s a pool in the back (though it

may or may not be filled) and hammocks

in the front courtyard.

Casa Nuestra (%252 0258; berenicenorris@hotmail

.com; r per person incl breakfast $22) Also known

as La Casa de Berenice Norris, this place

on the Malecón across from the basketball

courts has several rooms with shared bathroom.

The kitchen and living room areas

are open to guests and there are hammocks

in the yard. Can help with tours and refer

you to other homestays on the island.

Hotel Mar Azul (%252 0139; hotelmarazul_ex@

hotmail.com; Av Alsacio Northia at Av Quito; s $12-20, d

$20-25; a) Friendly and has pleasant patios

and rooms with private hot shower, TV and

fan. The Mar Azul Extension is a modern

building across the street. Rooms here are

a little more expensive.

Los Cactus (%252 0078; hostal_cactus@hotmail

.com; J Jose Flores near Av Quito; s/d/tr incl breakfast

$15/24/33) A friendly family-run place, the

Los Cactus however isn’t much to look at

since everything is concrete. The fan-cooled

rooms have TV. A terrace with good views

of town was in the works at the time of

research.

Hotel Chatham (%252 0137; Av Alsacio Northia; r

$15-25) The Chatham has a concrete patio

with hammocks, but it’s an old building

and the rooms are basic.

Cabañas Don Jorge (%252 0208; Av Alsacio Northia;

r per person $8-15) Don Jorge consists of several

old cabañas, probably not much changed

since Darwin’s day, set amid unkempt

grounds directly across from Playa Mann

on the way to the Interpretation Center.

Each room is a rustic hodgepodge of furniture

and has a separate ancient kitchen.

Hotel Orca (%/fax 252 0233, Quito %02-256 4565;

s/d about $45/55) This is the largest hotel on the

island, although besides its convenience for

big groups there’s not much to recommend

about the Orca. It’s near the beach and the

20 basic rooms have hot water and fans.

Casa del Ceibo (%252 0248; r per person $4)

Known to locals in the highlands of Progreso

as Tarzan’s House because of its address

– a large ceibo tree – there are two

basic rooms available. There’s kitchen access

and a restaurant is open on weekends.

Espanola) Offers day and overnight scuba trips, daytrips

on San Cristóbal and more expensive daytrips to nearby

islands; also rents snorkel, kayaking and biking equipment.

Galakiwi (%252 0873; www.southernexposuretours.co

.nz; Av Charles Darwin) Run by a New Zealand-Galápagean

couple. Land tours and snorkeling around San Cristóbal per

person $30; full-day tours to Espanola Island ($85); five-day

boat tours with overnights on islands from per person $300;

rents snorkeling gear; daily dive tours (two dives $100).

San Cristóbal Tours (%252 0124, 09-970 4415; Av

Charles Darwin) Daily and live-aboard diving cruises. PADIrun

courses. Also operates the Blue Attractions boat service

to Santa Cruz and Isabela. Run by Harry Jiménez, a friendly,

enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide.

Center (%252 0358, ext 102) on the north side of

the bay explains the history and significance

of the Galápagos better than anywhere else

in the islands or the country. Exhibits deal

with the biology, geology and human history

of the islands; definitely deserves a visit even

if you’ve already been inundated with facts

from boat guides. From the center there are

various well-marked trails that wind around

the cactus- and scrub-covered Cerro de las

Tijeretas (Frigatebird Hill). One trail leads

over the hill to the small Las Tijeretas bay,

which has excellent snorkeling. Directly in

front of the Interpretation Center is Playa

Mann, a small beach popular with townies

on the weekends.

Another trail leads west toward the narrow

beach of Playa Cabo de Horno, nicknamed

‘Playa del Amor’ (Beach of Love) because

the sheltering little mangrove trees are favorite

make-out spots. From this beach you

can often see surfers ripping up the waves

peeling off Punta Carola, the nearby point.

Surfing here is world-class and there are

three other breaks nearby.

From beside the airport a road leads several

kilometers (about half-an-hour’s walk)

to La Lobería, a rocky beach with a lazy sea

lion colony. There are lots of land iguanas

along the trail leading past the beach. Bring

water and protection from the sun. Taxis

charge about $3 to take you out here and

you can walk back (or pay an extra $4 for

the driver to wait).

There are several good spots for diving

nearby. Eagle rays, sea turtles, sea lions and

hammerheads and white-tip sharks can be

found at Kicker Rock. Big schools of jacks,

eagle rays, stingrays, and seahorses are seen

around Stephanie’s Rock. Roca Ballena is a

cave at about 23m to 24m down with corals,

parrotfish, and rays. There are also several

wreck dives around including the Caragua,

a 100m-long cargo ship near the Jessica oil

spill. Several companies in town offer diving

(see below ).