Posted September 22nd, 2008 by Bob the Sea Lion
Air
More information on flights to and from Santa Cruz . Reconfirming your flight departures at either the Aerogal (252 6798; www.aerogal.com.ec; Av Padre Julio Herrera) or TAME office (252 6165;www.tame.com.ec; Av Charles Darwin; h8am-noon & 2-10pm Mon-Fri, 4-6pm Sat) is essential. Flights are often full, and there is sometimes difficulty in changing your reservation or buying a ticket. EMETEBE (252 6177; Av Charles Darwin) has small aircraft that fly between Baltra and San Cristóbal and Isabela. You must reserve your ticket at least a few days in advance. Departure times vary.
Boat
The capitanía has information about (infrequent) boats to the mainland and has details of every boat sailing from Puerto Ayora.
The passenger ferry Ingala II sails Monday, Wednesday and Friday to San Cristóbal and two Fridays each month to Isabela. Both trips are about four hours and cost $50. Tickets are sold the day of departure below the EMETEBE office near the harbor. You can pick up schedules at the Cámara de Turismo, at the capitanía and at the main Ingala office (252 6151), north of the harbor off Avenida Padre Julio Herrera.
Ask at Restaurant Salvavidas about smaller boats that usually head daily to Isabela (one trip at 2pm) and San Cristóbal (up to eight trips in the morning). They reach the islands in less than three hours and charge about $30. There are no toilets on these little boats and the ride can be rough and even terrifying to some.
One recommended company that plies the Santa Cruz–San Cristóbal route in a larger, more trustworthy and comfortable boat than most is Blue Attractions
Tags: Transportation
Posted September 22nd, 2008 by Bob the Sea Lion
There really isn’t a bad time to visit, however there are several factors to keep in
mind in determining when to go. The islands have two distinct seasons: the warm/ wet season which lasts from January to June, when there can be strong but short periods of rain but it’s generally sunny and warm; and the cool/dry season which lasts from July to December when water temperatures
can become decidedly chilly and a misty precipitation known as the ‘garúa’ impacts the highlands.
High season in the Galápagos is roughly the same as the warm/wet season and also coincides with vacation periods in the USA such as Christmas and Easter. This means more boats and more groups. The low season,
generally the same as the cool/dry season means fewer visitors which is a plus, but while the air temperature is extremely pleasant, the water is colder (wet suits are definitely needed) and the seas can be rough during the overnight passages between islands. Sea sickness is not uncommon and some people have difficulty sleeping.
Posted September 21st, 2008 by Bob the Sea Lion
Panoramic views and frisky penguins make this tiny island just off Sullivan Bay a common stop for boat tours. A path from a jetty (dry landing) leads up to the wind-whipped 114m summit of the island where the dramatic views make it a de rigeur spot for group photos. This trail leads through a wild and unearthly looking lava landscape; a wooden boardwalk and stairs have been built, both to aid visitors and to protect the trail from erosion.
The other visitor site is a small, sandy beach in a cove (wet landing) from where you can don your snorkel gear and swim after the speedy Galápagos penguins that frequent this cove. Marine turtles and a gaudy variety of tropical fish are also frequently seen.
The best way to photograph the penguins is by taking a panga ride close to the rocks on either side of the cove – particularly around the aptly named Pinnacle Rock, to the right of the cove from the seaward side. You can often get within a few meters of these fascinating birds – the closest point to Puerto Ayora where you can do so. Other penguin colonies are on the western side of Isabela.
From the beach, a 100m trail leads across the narrowest part of Bartolomé to another sandy beach on the opposite side of the island.
Marine turtles may nest here between January and March.
Sombrero Chino
This tiny island, a fairly recent volcanic cone, just off the southeastern tip of Santiago is less than a quarter of 1 sq km in size. Its accuracy of its descriptive name, translated as ‘Chinese Hat,’ is best appreciated from the north. There is a small sea lion cove on the north shore, where you can anchor and land at the visitor site. Opposite Sombrero Chino, on the rocky shoreline of nearby Santiago, penguins are often seen. A 400m trail goes around the cove, where there’s snorkeling and swimming opportunities, and through a sea lion colony – marine iguanas scurry everywhere.
Isla Rábida
This approximately 5-sq-km island, also known as Jervis, lies 5km south of Santiago. There is a wet landing onto a comparatively dark red beach where sea lions haul out and pelicans nest. This is one of the best places to see these birds nesting.
Behind the beach, there is a saltwater lagoon where flamingos and white-cheeked pintails are sometimes seen. This lagoon is also the site of a sea lion colony where the solteros (lone males), deposed by the dominant bull, while away their days in bachelor ignominy.
There is a 750m trail with good views of the island’s 367m volcanic peak, which is covered with palo santo trees. At the end of the trail, there is a great snorkeling spot.
Tags: Pinguins
Posted September 21st, 2008 by Bob the Sea Lion
Once a hideout for British buccaneers and one of the stops on Darwin’s itinerary, Isla Santiago, whose little used official name is San Salvador, is the fourth-largest of the islands. It’s a frequent stop on boat tours because there are several interesting visitor sites and its terrain of rough lava fields is an example of the island’s challenging beauty.
One of the most popular sites in all the islands is Puerto Egas, on James Bay, on the west side of Santiago. Here, there is a long, flat, black lava shoreline where eroded shapes form lava pools, caves and inlets that house a great variety of wildlife. This is a great place to see colonies of marine iguanas basking in the sun. The tide pools contain hundreds of red Sally Lightfoot crabs, which attract hunting herons of all the commonly found species.
Named after Dario Egas, the owner of a salt mine on the island that was once, as a result of presidential patronage, the only producer of salt in all the country.
The inlets are favorite haunts of the Galápagos fur sea lion, and this is a great opportunity to snorkel with the surprisingly agile animals as well as many species of tropical fish, moray eels, sharks and octopuses.
Behind the black lava shoreline is Sugarloaf Volcano, which can be reached via a 2km path. Lava lizards, Darwin’s finches and Galápagos doves are often seen on this path. It peters out near the top of the 395m summit, but from here, the views are stuferal goats are often seen (wild goats are a major problem on Santiago), and Galápagos hawks often hover a few meters above the top of the volcano. North of the volcano is a crater where the salt mine used to be; its remains can be visited by walking alonga 3km trail from the coast. At the north end of James Bay, about 5km from Puerto Egas, is the brown-sand Espumilla Beach, which can be reached with a wet landing. The swimming is good here, and by the small lagoon behind the beach you can see various wading birds – including, at times, flamingos. A 2km trail leads inland through transitional vegetation where there are various finches and the Galápagos flycatcher.
At the northwestern end of Santiago, another site that is normally visited by boat is Buccaneer Cove, so called because it was a popular place for 17th- and 18th-century buccaneers to careen their vessels. The cliffs and pinnacles, which are used as nesting areas by several species of seabirds, are the main attraction these days. This is best appreciated from the sea, but it is possible toland in the cove, where there are beaches. Sullivan Bay is on Santiago’s east coast.
Here, a huge, black, century-old lava flow has solidified into a sheet that reaches to the edge of the sea. A dry landing enables visitors to step onto the flow and follow a trail of white posts in a 2km circuit on the lava. You can see uneroded volcanic formations, such as pahoehoe lava, lava bubbles and tree-trunk molds in the surface. This site is of particular interest to those interested in volcanology or geology.
Tags: Lava Tubes
Posted September 21st, 2008 by Bob the Sea Lion
To get to the farming center of El Progreso
8km into the highlands, hire a taxi $2 (one($20), walk or hitchhike, for the final 10km
ride to the visitor site of El Junco Lagoon.
Some taxi drivers are licensed to give tours
of the lagoon.
In Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, taxis hang
out along the Malecón and have fixed rates
to island destinations, but don’t always stick
to them. They’ll take you to La Lobería, El
Progreso, El Junco Lagoon, La Galapaguera
and Puerto Chino.
Posted September 21st, 2008 by Bob the Sea Lion
Air
The airport is half a kilometer from town –
a five-minute walk or a $1 taxi ride (taxis
are white pickup cabs). For information on
flights to Guayaquil and Quito see p358 . A
Hercules plane seconded from the air force,
flies tourists from Guayaquil to San Cristóbal,
Baltra and Isabela every 15 days and costs
half of other fares (see p358 ). Regardless of
the airline you should try to check your luggage
at least two hours in advance; you can
always easily return to town to spend your
final hours in the islands more comfortably.
AeroGal (%252 1117; www.aerogal.com.ec) Office at
the airport.
EMETEBE (%252 0036) Office at the airport. Flies
within the islands.
TAME (%252 1089; www.tame.com.ec; Av Charles
Darwin) Office in town and at the airport.
Boat
Ingala II sails two to three times per week
to Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz ($50, about
four hours). Small boats head to Santa Cruz
and occasionally to Floreana and Isabela;
ask about the Blue Attractions boat at San
Cristóbal Tours (see opposite ). Rates are $20
to $30 (two to 2½ hours).
Tags: Transportation
Posted September 21st, 2008 by Bob the Sea Lion
Miconia (%252 0035; Av Charles Darwin; mains $6-
12; h7am-8pm) Part of the hotel of the same
name, this is the most modern and comfortable
restaurant in town. The 2nd-floor
dining room has great views of the harbor
and serves pizza ($8), pasta ($7) and seafood
($8). Cheap almuerzos are also available.
Las Playas (%252 0577; Av de la Armada Nacional;
mains $6) This restaurant in an attractive yellow
building along the waterfront to the
west of town has outdoor seating and, more
importantly, large portions. The shrimp
cooked in coconut milk ($7) is especially
good as is the conch ceviche ($6) and the
personal pizzas ($7).
Yogurt Persa (Av Charles Darwin; burgers $2) A good
spot to watch new arrivals and old hands
come and go on the pier just opposite. It’s
fast food all the way, from the bright lights
to the chicken meals.
La Casona (%252 0292; Av Charles Darwin) Look
for the yellow and blue facade at the southern
end of the Malecón for good sandwiches,
shakes and coffee.
Mi Grande (Jose de Villamil; drinks $0.90-1.50) Famous
for its array of batidos (fruit shakes).
Rosita’s (Ignacio Hernandez & Wolf ) and Restaurant
Albacora (Alsacio Northia & Española) both serve
tasty fresh-caught fish ($4) and cheap almuerzos
($3).
Patagonia Café & Bar (Av Charles Darwin), Deep
Blue Restaurant (Av Espanola) and Restaurant Barracuda
are similar places on or just off the
Malecón serving inexpensive almuerzos and
snacks throughout the day and evening.
DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT
Bar Arrecife is the place for karaoke filled
evenings and the rustic Polos Cafe & Bar (Av 12
de Febrero) is sometimes turned into a discotheque
but always does good capahrinas.
The Island Discoteque (Av Isabela) is perched
on a hill in town. Side by side, Neptuno (Av
Charles Darwin) and Yolita (Av Charles Darwin) are the
local discos; both are on the Malecón near
the capitanía.
El Barquero is a good hang-out with outdoor
tables, though usually only open on
weekends.
Posted September 21st, 2008 by Bob the Sea Lion
Miconia (%252 0608; www.miconia.tk; Av Charles Darwin;
s/d incl breakfast $40/60; ais) The Miconia
is easily the nicest place to stay on the
island. Just a few steps from the passenger
wharf on the waterfront, this hotel’s seven
rooms (it’s building eight more) are tucked
back quietly in a nicely landscaped garden
with hammocks, a tiny pool and Jacuzzi.
Each extremely attractive room, really
suites since there are separate living room
areas with wicker furniture, is painted in
bright cheerful colors. There’s a full-service
gym and excellent restaurant and café overlooking
the harbor. Internet café as well.
Residencial Wilmar (%252 0706; rafriv@ecuaenlace
.com; Gabriel García Moreno; s/d incl breakfast $25/50; a)
Only a few blocks from the harbor, this place
has several large, comfortable rooms in a
family home. Everything is kept spotless and
the mattresses are especially good.
Teclas Surf Resort (%252 0632; teclagenoa@yahoo
.com; s/d $30/60; a) This white villa next to
the Miconia has large, basic rooms; those
on the 2nd floor have balconies with sea
views. There’s a pool in the back (though it
may or may not be filled) and hammocks
in the front courtyard.
Casa Nuestra (%252 0258; berenicenorris@hotmail
.com; r per person incl breakfast $22) Also known
as La Casa de Berenice Norris, this place
on the Malecón across from the basketball
courts has several rooms with shared bathroom.
The kitchen and living room areas
are open to guests and there are hammocks
in the yard. Can help with tours and refer
you to other homestays on the island.
Hotel Mar Azul (%252 0139; hotelmarazul_ex@
hotmail.com; Av Alsacio Northia at Av Quito; s $12-20, d
$20-25; a) Friendly and has pleasant patios
and rooms with private hot shower, TV and
fan. The Mar Azul Extension is a modern
building across the street. Rooms here are
a little more expensive.
Los Cactus (%252 0078; hostal_cactus@hotmail
.com; J Jose Flores near Av Quito; s/d/tr incl breakfast
$15/24/33) A friendly family-run place, the
Los Cactus however isn’t much to look at
since everything is concrete. The fan-cooled
rooms have TV. A terrace with good views
of town was in the works at the time of
research.
Hotel Chatham (%252 0137; Av Alsacio Northia; r
$15-25) The Chatham has a concrete patio
with hammocks, but it’s an old building
and the rooms are basic.
Cabañas Don Jorge (%252 0208; Av Alsacio Northia;
r per person $8-15) Don Jorge consists of several
old cabañas, probably not much changed
since Darwin’s day, set amid unkempt
grounds directly across from Playa Mann
on the way to the Interpretation Center.
Each room is a rustic hodgepodge of furniture
and has a separate ancient kitchen.
Hotel Orca (%/fax 252 0233, Quito %02-256 4565;
s/d about $45/55) This is the largest hotel on the
island, although besides its convenience for
big groups there’s not much to recommend
about the Orca. It’s near the beach and the
20 basic rooms have hot water and fans.
Casa del Ceibo (%252 0248; r per person $4)
Known to locals in the highlands of Progreso
as Tarzan’s House because of its address
– a large ceibo tree – there are two
basic rooms available. There’s kitchen access
and a restaurant is open on weekends.
Tags: Galapagos Hotels, Hotels
Posted September 21st, 2008 by Bob the Sea Lion
Chalo Tours (%252 0953; chalotours@hotmail.com;
Espanola) Offers day and overnight scuba trips, daytrips
on San Cristóbal and more expensive daytrips to nearby
islands; also rents snorkel, kayaking and biking equipment.
Galakiwi (%252 0873; www.southernexposuretours.co
.nz; Av Charles Darwin) Run by a New Zealand-Galápagean
couple. Land tours and snorkeling around San Cristóbal per
person $30; full-day tours to Espanola Island ($85); five-day
boat tours with overnights on islands from per person $300;
rents snorkeling gear; daily dive tours (two dives $100).
San Cristóbal Tours (%252 0124, 09-970 4415; Av
Charles Darwin) Daily and live-aboard diving cruises. PADIrun
courses. Also operates the Blue Attractions boat service
to Santa Cruz and Isabela. Run by Harry Jiménez, a friendly,
enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide.
Tags: Galapagos Tours
Posted September 21st, 2008 by Bob the Sea Lion
The modern and easy to digest Interpretation
Center (%252 0358, ext 102) on the north side of
the bay explains the history and significance
of the Galápagos better than anywhere else
in the islands or the country. Exhibits deal
with the biology, geology and human history
of the islands; definitely deserves a visit even
if you’ve already been inundated with facts
from boat guides. From the center there are
various well-marked trails that wind around
the cactus- and scrub-covered Cerro de las
Tijeretas (Frigatebird Hill). One trail leads
over the hill to the small Las Tijeretas bay,
which has excellent snorkeling. Directly in
front of the Interpretation Center is Playa
Mann, a small beach popular with townies
on the weekends.
Another trail leads west toward the narrow
beach of Playa Cabo de Horno, nicknamed
‘Playa del Amor’ (Beach of Love) because
the sheltering little mangrove trees are favorite
make-out spots. From this beach you
can often see surfers ripping up the waves
peeling off Punta Carola, the nearby point.
Surfing here is world-class and there are
three other breaks nearby.
From beside the airport a road leads several
kilometers (about half-an-hour’s walk)
to La Lobería, a rocky beach with a lazy sea
lion colony. There are lots of land iguanas
along the trail leading past the beach. Bring
water and protection from the sun. Taxis
charge about $3 to take you out here and
you can walk back (or pay an extra $4 for
the driver to wait).
There are several good spots for diving
nearby. Eagle rays, sea turtles, sea lions and
hammerheads and white-tip sharks can be
found at Kicker Rock. Big schools of jacks,
eagle rays, stingrays, and seahorses are seen
around Stephanie’s Rock. Roca Ballena is a
cave at about 23m to 24m down with corals,
parrotfish, and rays. There are also several
wreck dives around including the Caragua,
a 100m-long cargo ship near the Jessica oil
spill. Several companies in town offer diving
(see below ).
